For some reason I haven’t written a word about it. The gorgeous 1988 Terrantez Colheita from d’Oliveiras. No, I’m not that kind of guy who keeps the grains of gold for myself; why write a site entirely dedicated to Madeira wine then? Maybe I just took it for granted you all knew? That this probably is the best young Terrantez available on the market. Sorry, did I say probably?
I am privileged to taste a lot of Madeira. Yes, I do love to drink the old stuff from the 19th century, wines with more than 100 years of age. But to be completely honest, I’m just as much in to tasting the new wines, the Madeiras available and released today. When I meet the remaining producers on the island, taste my way through their new releases, I’m mostly impressed by one thing – the consistently high quality among all of them. It’s hence pretty easy to state that Madeira has never ever been better than it is as of today and yet we tend to define the fortified wine for its past achievements.
The 1988 Colheita from Pereira d’Oliveira is a fine example of what Madeira as of today can offer the consumer. Bottled in 2009, at 21 years of age, it could’ve been a vintage wine. But d’Oliveiras can afford the luxury to ”de-classify” to colheita, if the wine doesn’t possess the intensity and concentration expected from a frasqueira wine. The winner is of course the consumer who gets a fine wine at a lesser price.
Lovely, transparent light amber color. Seductive nose with scents of figs, pipe tobacco, oriental spices, nutmeg and orange peel. Add the faintest touch of varnish as well. Quite complex for such a young wine. On the palate the 1988 shows a fine balance between the sweetness and the lime like acidity. Burnt sugar, dust, figs in syrup and walnuts. Creamy texture. The finale is long but the midpalate do lack the intensity found in a vintage wine. Still, can’t blaim the wine for lacking finesse.
Not at the same level as d’Oliveiras vintage Terrantez wines from 1971 and 1977, but then again that’s why the brothers made a colheita out of it. Believe me, you want to drink this one – and do tell your friends about it.
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