Vinhos Justino Henriques 1954 Verdelho

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Wasn’t it Hemingway who said: “Write drunk; edit sober.” Perhaps it worked for him, perhaps it works for others. Personally I never write about wine while having it. My impressions needs to fall into place first and I like to give a wine an extra thought before telling the world.

In 1954 Hemingway was awarded the Nobel Prize. He never came to the ceremony due to illness so John C. Cabot, United States Ambassador to Sweden, read his speech. Although based on Hemingway’s all work, the prize was perhaps mostly connected to The Old Man and the Sea which was published just a few years before. You can listen to a part of his Nobel speech here, recorded later on.

Great literature and ditto wine are a weak spot of mine. 1954 is hence a year which is easy to remember, not only for the fact who was awarded the Nobel Prize, but also for the great Madeira wines produced this year. Next to some outstanding Blandy’s wines and a great Henriques and Henriques, there’s the 1954 Verdelho from VJH, Vinhos Justino Henriques. Today, the company listens under the name of Justino’s only.

When I try Verdelho, my favorite grape, I need to concentrate a bit more, not to get too subjective. But no matter what, this 1954 Vintage Verdelho from Justino’s, is a fine, fine wine. Perhaps not showing the same concentration on the nose as other wines tasted from the year, but the palate and length is impressive. A bit shy on the start with hints of vanilla, spices, coffee, burnt sugar and walnuts. There’s a slight green note as well, like unripe lime, which adds freshness.

Having sniffed the wine, the complete contrast is to be found on the palate. It’s a finely concentrated Verdelho with delicious acidity and long length. Quite dry which makes it a good pairing with several dishes. Tobacco, dust, vanilla and smoke. Nutmeg and freshly ground coffe as well. The slightly green note is to be found here as well; herbs and something reminding me of pickled green walnuts.

This is Madeira and can of course keep for long, but the 1954 Verdelho feels perfect now and I’m not sure there is any need to keep it for the sake of it. Buy, enjoy and serve this beauty with mushrooms.

Want to find the wine? Wine-searched here.

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