1978 Frasqueira. Sercial. By Vinhos Barbeito.

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All the well-known grapes has it; their own day. There’s the international Syrah day for example. Heck, even Grenache has its own day. Every time I’m having a great Sercial the thought pops up in mind; this grape deserves its own day as well. I need to find a way to promote The international Sercial day.

Although I’m not a winemaker, I can imagine this must be one of the most demanding Madeira grapes to work with in order to balance the high acidity. Due to the fact that the grape mostly are to be found on the northwest part of the island, around Porto Moniz and Seixal, it retains its high acidity even more because of the exposed vineyards. Being a late ripening grape, also increases the difficulty level.

Some give up and turns to safer bets, but then there are those who can’t say no to the challenge and has the patience needed. You see, Sercial really needs time and only a true Madeira winemaker feels comfortable with that fact. Don’t stress the wine, there is no magic but patience. And taming that acidity of course.

If you would ask for my current number one choice of aged Sercial available today, I wouldn’t need any consideration. It’s a simple answer; the 1978 Sercial Frasqueira from Vinhos Barbeito. Complex, elegant and intense. Considering this wine has spent 29 years in cask, it is amazing how fresh it has remained. Sadly, as with most great Madeira wines, the number of bottles produced, are limited. Ricardo Diogo, owner and winemaker at Barbeito, bottled 450 of this one in 2011, after the Sercial had spent its last two years in demijohns.

For me, Ricardo Diogo is the number one when it comes to taming acidity. The trademark of Barbeito is high acidity in the wines and balancing it demands know-how. Ricardo clearly has that. Just sniffing the 1978 Sercial is a real treat. Lots of roasted almonds, lemon peel, vanilla, dried fruits, especially apricots and then a dash of smoke. The paint feel is also there, in the background. For a not yet initiated Sercial consumer that might sound odd, paint, but au contraire it adds a lovely nuance to the bouquet.

Tasting the wine. It takes just a nano second to realize how darn unique this kind of wine is. There is absolutely nothing in the world to compare with. Nuts, ground coffee, vanilla, lemon peel with just a touch of orange as well, and a humus feel. Just the faintest floral hint as well. But most important; the impeccable balance between the high acidity and residual sugar. That, is what I call precision. Amazing intensity and such a clean feel in the finish which stays for a long time and refuses to leave. Thanks for that! Can I have a re-fill?

Not only is this a top class effort and one darn good Sercial, it is a wine I am pretty sure would have many admirers if only people knew it existed. It goes splendid with food; for example with mushroom dishes, soups and hard cheeses. And if you prefer, it is just as good on its own.

Now I only have to find a way to promote a Sercial day. The grape deserves it and everyone calling themselves a connaisseur should try the 1978, just to understand the Sercial magic. Are you in?

Want to try the Barbeito Sercial? As always, Americans can find it at The Rare Wine Co. The 1978 is USD 125. That’s a bargain deal! In Europe it can be found at The Madeira Collection or at BBR in UK.

Check bottling date. This review concerns the 2011 bottling.

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