Pereira d’Oliveira: 1932 Verdelho [vehr-DEH-lyoh]

“It’s actually the first time we’ve bottled it,” says Luís d’Oliveira.

“Around 78 years in cask. It was showing really well so we bottled it earlier this year.”

It’s good to be back again. At the old warehouse in Rua dos Ferreiros 107, meeting Aníbal and Luís d’Oliveira. This time my visit couldn’t have come at a more intense period. Harvest.

“It’s a difficult year,” Luís says.

“A small harvest. Spring came late and we’ve had a lot of rain when we preferably shouldn’t. Then very hot as well. Hot for Madeira. 2010 was better. Still, some of the grape varieties are very good.”

I’m tasting through a bunch of new acquaintances and Luís has just poured the 1932 Verdelho. By now I think he knows my weak spot for Verdelho, the Madeira grape that, for me, is the most thrilling to drink. The 1932 is good. I mean really good.

For a few seconds my mind wanders off and I find myself fully understanding why Sercial and Verdelho were such big hits in Georgia and South Carolina back in the good old days. Savannah and Charleston. The 1932 Verdelho from d’Oliveiras is actually a refreshing drink, despite the 28 C outside – and also in the warehouse where we are sitting. Will it taste just as good back home when I pop a bottle?

So, why Verdelho? Why not the rare Terrantez? Or the floral and more concentrated Malvazia? Simple, there’s something about Verdelho. It’s the grape which keeps the most of its character, after the fortification and ageing in casks for decades. And next to Boal it is also the grape that offers the most terroir feel. But perhaps the splendid pairing with food, is the number one reason why Verdelho rocks my world?

The 1932 Verdelho, bottled in 2011 shows a dark amber color. On the nose it offers spicy, almost oriental, notes with underlying subtle notes of summer flowers. The fruit feel is there as well. Pears. Then the vanilla fudge and a subtle scent of coconut and bitter almond oil. Fresh bouquet. A real sniff wine.

On the palate it’s all about elegance. Such fine harmony between the lingering acidity and the integrated sweetness. Almonds in burnt sugar. Oriental spices. Wet sand road and moist tobacco. And a fresh fruit feel which is just amazing. A long balanced aftertaste that never becomes too much or too intense. A wine for the connoisseur simply.

1932 Verdelho, bottled 2011, Pereira d’Oliveira

Want to taste it? In Europe the wine is offered by the Belgian The Madeira Collection. UK residents can check with Bovey Wines. For the US market, Mannie Berk and his The Rare Wine Co has made it available at a most reasonable price.

Mad about Madeira is finally on Facebook as well. Why not follow?