H.M. Borges; a new release – 20 years old Verdelho

On 23 oktober, 2011 · Leave a Comment · In 20 YO, Blends, Borges, H.M. Borges, Isabel Borges, Madeira, Verdelho

Just out of the blue it starts dripping from the wooden ceiling. The liquid misses Isabel with a decimetre or two.

I’m at Rua 31 de Janeiro number 83. The old flour mill where H.M. Borges are to be found. The location is fantastic, in the middle of Funchal, but at the same time hardly optimal for wine-production. From the outside it is hard to understand the intensity currently going on at the inner courtyard.

Old casks means leakage. And constant repairing. Something me and Isabel just were reminded about. Still, this is Madeira and all about old casks. Yes, you will see newer ones as well but these demands the greatest caution. It is the old casks that helps giving Madeira wine its unique character.

We’re discussing my favorite; Verdelho. Isabel will release a new one in just a few weeks; a 20 years old Verdelho.

”I’m just waiting for the labels to arrive. Then it’s all set,” she tells me. ”Do you want to taste it?

It seems to be the new trend in Madeira wine; the 20 years old blends. Henriques and Henriques does it. Blandy’s and Vinhos Barbeito as well. 20 years old blends. That’s the same aging time as the regulation states for a vintage wine. Although a blend never will reach the concentration as a frasqueira, that doesn’t mean there isn’t a market for the blends. You see these don’t compete with each other and the elegance of an aged blend is simply just divine.

The 20 years old Verdelho from H.M. Borges is a wine worth checking out, once it is released. Clear light amber color. Fine Verdelho nose with lots of spicy scents, pears in brandy, walnuts, tobacco, dust and vanilla. Elegance written all over it. On the palate a lighter style with lovely harmony and refreshing acidity. Marzipan, wood, spices and pears. Walnuts and pipe tobacco. Long, ethereal ending. This will make a great pairing with a creamy mushroom soup!

Buy the wine? Ask your retailer for this one. Since it is just about to be released you can also contact H.M. Borges directly for retailers.

MAM Opinion: