MAD ABOUT MADEIRA
The most breathtaking wine in the world!
Doce. That is Portuguese for sweet. The labeling of the non-vintage wines at Pereira d’Oliveiras are easy to follow. Dry, medium dry, semi sweet and sweet. Add the age to that; 5 years old, 10 years old or 15 years old. The reason for not writing Sercial, Verdelho, Bual or Malvasia instead is simple; none of them are used in the non-vintage wines. Those are being saved for the top wines. Still, there’s no need to suspect dull wines – especially the 10 and 15 years old versions are real charmers with a quality price ratio hard to beat.
I’m reminded about the different styles of the Madeira houses when enjoying a glass of the sweet 15 years old Pereira d’Oliveira. In fact, when I have a Madeira craving I’m primarily thinking house style and grape or type of sweetness. Not just Madeira. The beauty of Madeira is the fact you can keep several bottles open withouth damaging the wines. In other words, there’s always a bottle open for every kind of occasion or craving at my home.
The non-vintage wines of d’Oliveiras are primarily made of grapes such as Triunfo and Complexa. They will never produce the quality of the noble grapes, and a sweet 15 years old will never have the complexity or power as a Malvasia. This is especially evident in the younger wines but with age the 15 years old collection are real charmers.
The ”Doce” shows lots of hazelnuts, dried herbs, orange peel, tobacco and candied sugar. If the bouquet is leaning towards murky, the taste is all about refreshing acidity backing up the sweetness. Lighter in style, a bit oxidative, but so elegant. Nutmeg and hazelnuts. Dried figs and herbal honey. A touch of smoke and bitter Valrhona chocolate. Long, lingering finish. A great glass with saltier, but not to powerful, cheeses.
15 Years old Doce, Pereira d’Oliveira, 90-91 p
Europeans can buy it at The Madeira Collection for EUR 39.75 – or check with the UK importer where to find it. Madeira friends in the US? Check with The Rare Wine Co.
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