Stuck on the repeat button you think? How many times will he write about the 2000 Malvasia Cask 44a?
I know, I should keep my hands off the Malvasia for a while and save some of those precious bottles for later on, but the wine’s simply so gorgeous it’s impossible to resist. Also, when having guests over I always take the opportunity to serve Madeira, in hope more will have an eye-opener and realize what they’ve been missing out on.
This time it’s bottle number 886 out of 1026 half liter bottles being popped. And once again I am overwhelmed by the delicious floral aromas attacking the nose, realizing why I’m so fond of Colheita’s – they seem to stick with the grape character which otherwise becomes secondary in a fortified wine.
Now, although showing fine complexity already there’s no doubt it’s a Malvasia in the glass. The matchstick scent I noticed in the last bottle is here as well but this time it more resembles smoke and wet rocks. The orange peel is there and so are the figs and a nice vanilla fudge note. I don’t know how he does it, winemaker Ricardo Diogo Freitas, but his wines are the Madeira’s that without doubt shows most character of the soil. Simply put, a Madeira for the terroirist’s!
The Malvasia is cultivated at São Martinho whis is to be found between Cãmara de Lobos and Funchal – a classic spot for Malvasia.
In the mouth the 2000 Malvasia excellently sums up my weakness for Madeira. It’s sweet and floral but at the same time shows its trademark, the high acidity, re-assuring the taste don’t get too sugary. Such fine concentration, yet vivid and elegant at the same time. 99 grams of sugar per liter, ph at 3,4 and a volatile acidty at 0,64 dm3.
You simply got to find one of those 1026 half liter bottles and try it out. It’s worth the effort!
The German Madeira aficionado Maik Göbel retails the 2000 Barbeito Malvasia Cask 44a and you can find the link to his shop here.
(2000 Malvasia Cask 44a, Vinhos Barbeito, 93 points)
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My Madeira photos on Flickr